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Q:
As a person new to lilies, what wild lilies or species would you
recommend to start with? |
A:
One of the easiest species to grow is L. pumilum and L. davidii. Both
of these lilies have been used extensively in hybridizing. L. pumilum
is also easy to grow from seed. Both of these species have grassy
style foliage. |
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Q:
Catalogues show lilies available for spring planting. Is this a good
time to plant lilies rather than the fall and will they bloom this
year if planted this spring? |
A:
Yes they will most certainly bloom this year. Because of better cold
storage and quality control of bulbs dug in the fall more varieties
are now being offered in spring as well. Orientals and trumpets are
best planted in the spring here on the prairies. Because of the early
emergence of martagons they should be planted in the fall.
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Q:
My lilies have
made a large clump but now only have a couple of blooms per stem. What can I do
to improve them? |
A:
It is
time to dig them up and divide them as they are too crowded and are
starving for nutrients. The best time to move them if they are
asiatics or LA hybrids is when they have matured in the Fall, from
September 15th - Oct 15th. |
|
Q:
How can I tell what seeds I collected are viable? |
A:
Use the huff and blow technique. Just blow gently on the seeds as you
transfer them from one bowl to another. The chaff will blow away while
the good seeds (the heavier ones) will fall into the other bowl.
Another way is to candle them. If you have a reading or magnifying
glass, then place the seeds under it. The good seed has a light
colored stripe to it. |
|
Q:
Should I fertilize my lilies this Fall? |
A:
If you feel the need to fertilize your lilies this Fall, do it very sparingly.
Bone meal is a good choice. Heavy fertilizing in the Fall can cause the bulbs to
go soft and rot over the winter. The best time to fertilize is when they are
coming into bud and after they have finished blooming. At this stage they are
putting down new roots and will take advantage of the additional food. Fertilize
with a even numbered fertilizer such as 14-14-14 or a 20-20-20. |
|
Q:
Is it possible to have fragrance in the asiatics? |
A:
Yes, although it is rare it is possible. Two of the asiatic species
have a pungent odour. L. pumilum and L. amabile and their offspring
sometimes have a bit of fragrance. A number of years ago, Doli Kolli
had a lovely seedling that had a spicy scent. It was registered,
‘Carlie’ and was a deep raspberry pink with a white flare. It was a
cross of ‘Pirate’ x ‘Juliana’. If you like to hybridize and have a
chance to have an asiatic lily with perfume, then try this cross
again. I know I will this year. |
|
Q:
Why do lily leaves turn yellow or light greenish yellow? |
A:
Generally this is a plant disorder called chlorosis. Chlorosis is the
result of the interruption of the production of chlorophyll (which
cause the green pigment) due to not enough nitrogen or phosphorus and
magnesium. Often this problem here in Manitoba is caused by a
deficiency of Iron. One other cause may be not enough light over a
long period of time. This may show up in yellow growing tips, ie rapid
growing under heavy overcast conditions. Light, heat and a fertilizer
boost should correct the problem. |
|
Q:
What is an Aurelian and it history? |
A:
Jean Ericksen told me in a letter it is a cross, first made by a man
in France. He named it after a Roman named town in France. The first
cross named
L. aurelianense
was made by Debras and was a cross of
L. sargentiae
and
L. henryi
made in 1928. Aurelian hybrids have had
L. leucanthum
to the cross by Carlton Yerex. The RHS Lily Registry also add the term
Aurelian has become synonymous with all hybrids of similar parentage.
L. henryi
has given hardiness to trumpet crosses. |
|
Q:
Are the little black things growing on the stems of my lilies seed? |
A:
No, these are not seed but are called bulbils. This is one way in
which lilies with
L. lancifolium
blood in them can increase themselves. These will grow to be exactly
like their parent. They have a small contractile roots that when they
fall to the ground help to pull them into the soil. This is the way
L. lancifolium
or
L. tigrinum
propagates itself. |
|
Q:
I have a clump of lilies. Can I move and divide them this spring? |
A:
Lilies generally speaking are best moved in the fall at the lowest
point of their growth period. However they can be successfully moved
and separated in the spring. This must be done very carefully in
digging them and teasing them apart. Dig them before new growth starts
otherwise the new growth stems are most likely to be broken off and so
you will lose the bloom of that bulb for that year. |
|
Q:
I have collected seed pods from my lily. What should I do with it now? |
A:
Take the seed pod and break it apart, to take out the seeds. You can
get up to 300 seeds from it, or you may get some seed and some chaff.
Separate the seeds from the chaff, and store seeds in a paper envelope
in a cool place until you are ready to plant indoors in February or
March. Look for how to start seed in the next newsletter!! |
|
Q:
I planted pink, white & yellow lilies. Why did they all change to
orange after 2-3 years? |
A:
I would suspect that you planted them with the old L. tigrinum, which
is orange with spots, with black bulbils in the leaf axils. Those
little bulbs drop down and start new plants. This lily also carries a
virus and so it ends up killing your other lilies. Plant your other
lilies a good distance away if you want to grow L. tigrinum. |
|
Q:
When is the best time to move lilies? |
A:
You can move lilies anytime through their growing period as long as
you take soil with the bulbs and are careful not to break the sprouts
off. In general Fall is the best time to move them after frost when
the bulbs are going into their dormant stage. Be sure to water in
after planting so that the soil settles in around the bulb, leaving no
air pockets. |
|
Q:
What is a martagon lily? |
A:
A martagon is a lily characterized by whorls of spatulate leaves. The
stems rise vertically from a round yellowish bulb with pointed scales
to a height of 3-6ft with anywhere from 3-50 flowers. These flowers
are fleshy and recurved, hence the name Turk’s cap. The seed is heavy
and hypogeal delayed. Ideal for shade areas. |
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